Shetland: Otters

A good place to start talking about our Shetland adventure is with an animal I had largely forgotten in planning the trip.

Whilst I do spend a lot of time watching birds, I actually have more interest in mammals. In planning the holiday, I had only really thought about the possibility of seeing orca, which unfortunately we didn’t, and the almost certainty of seeing seals, which we did. The possibility of watching otters in the Shetlands had almost completely escaped me. Despite this lapse in thinking, Shetland, perhaps, was the best place I’ve been to in search of this lovely species.

To date, I’ve only ever seen otters in Scotland, specifically in the Hebrides, having previously had some great views in Mull and Skye. I’ve seen tracks and signs of otters elsewhere including the Hebrides but so far I’ve never seen them or their signs anywhere else in the UK.

Our otter watching had a slow start with a momentary glimpse of a splash and tail in a loch as we drove past. Despite turning around and looking around the spot, there was no further sighting. That was almost it for the first of the two weeks until I had a late evening view of a distant otter on the far side of the loch above which we stayed for our first five nights. The brief view through my telescope revealed the otter searching around the shoreline in the failing evening light before it disappeared into a hole beneath a rock.

For the second week, we moved away from the west of Shetland, where we had stayed near to the village of Walls, to the far north and island of Unst. We had thought from what little research we had done before our trip, that otter spotting in Unst was quite difficult and less likely to be productive than other places. This was actually far from the case and we had four excellent sittings.

Our first came in a gloomy and damp afternoon as we drove from Clivocast to Uyesound. As we passed over the narrow strip of dry land between Easter Loch and the sea, we saw a head and then the rest of an otter’s body appear in the fresh water of the Loch. Stopping the car, we watched as the animal fish momentarily before it moved off, avoiding a swan, left the water and trotted up through a meadow on the opposite bank. I suspect this is quite a good place for finding otters as a lady we spoke to later in the week had also seen on at this spot a few days earlier.

Our next encounter was on a day trip off Unst to the smaller island of Fetlar. As we were making our way back to the ferry for our return journey we stopped off at the old slipway below Brough Lodge. At first we saw curlew and great northern divers but then an otter appeared on the water’s surface, diving down in search of prey. After a while it reappeared with a huge crab and proceeded, with some difficultly, to swim to the land. As it came to the shoreline it sat on a large rock to start to break up the crab and eat its contents. Unfortunately, we had to leave for the ferry and missed the opportunity to better the photographs shown below.

The day was not complete for our otter sightings. As we returned to our holiday rental that evening, we decided to stop off at a turning head next to the bay below Westing. It wasn’t long before we struck lucky and found a slightly distant otter fishing between the shoreline and Brough Holm. We decided to walk along the coast to get a bit closer and as we did the otter came to shore and then disappeared. As we walked further searching the rocks we found it again, eating its meal in a secluded spot. We stood for a few minutes watching it chomp away contentedly and managed to get some nice photos of it. Eventually, it moved off back into the water and out of sight.

We had one final otter sighting, this time on Yell. As we drove down towards the ferry to the mainland (checking out the food truck for breakfast the next morning – which is worth a try while waiting for your crossing), an otter ran across the road. As we drove slowly up to the spot where it had crossed, it ran along a drainage ditch beside us and then disappeared into a culvert.

For that second week, it almost seemed easy to find otters in Shetland and I’m sure we could have seen more if we had spent additional time at some of those spots. It really was worth putting in the effort to find them, although, I have to say that our stop at Otterswick on Yell came up with a blank!

Isle of Skye – A Tour to the Wild Side

To learn where the best nature spots are in a new area I think it’s alway best to ask the locals and a good way to do that it to take a tour with a local guide.

I’ve been on fully led wildlife holidays both in the UK and abroad, and whilst I have enjoyed every one, I don’t think there is any need to have such holidays in the UK. With a bit of planning (not that I’ve done much this time), some maps and a bit of thought into what habitats there are, and what wildlife they may support, you shouldn’t go too far wrong. However, a little local help is alway a bonus!

So today I went on a guided trip, without my (not so) trusty camera, to help familiarise myself with some of the best places to spot the best wildlife on Skye. Setting off midmorning from the main car park in Portree, we immediately headed out to spot otters in a nearby bay. However, no otters were seen but two soaring golden eagles more than made up for it – slowly floating and circling on what little wind and lift there was, they eventually dipped behind the nearby hill.

Perhaps the most unexpected and astonishing sighting was next with thousand upon thousand of migrating thrushes (mainly fieldfares with a few redwings mixed in) forming fly-swarm like clouds passing over the heaths and hillsides. Everywhere we looked there were birds – on the trees, in the heather, on the telephone lines and all round us in the air. This was a true wildlife spectacular.

As the weather started to close in we headed on in search of more eagles. We went to several places without much luck, seeing some red deer instead, but as the rain eased, we were rewarded with two juvenile white-tailed eagles floating around the top of a hill, giving us very good and close views (they were much closer than the photo below suggests).

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Moving on again we scoured an area of water for otter but again no luck but at lunch we were rewarded again, but this time by two golden eagles displaying high up above us, one moment soaring and then next stooping and rising like on an invisible rollercoaster.

The afternoon was spent looking for otters and finally we were given a few fleeting views of a couple of these watery mammals. We saw one from a distance but it soon disappeared, so we moved on around to the far side of where we had seen it. From there we had a better view but almost as fleeting. A second otter was then seen, but for just as short a time, with neither to be seen again.

Heading back to Portree, after a few more stops to look for otters, we were given a final sight of a single white-tailed eagle as it flew past back to where we had just come from – a nice, last view to finish the tour.

The trip wasn’t just otters and eagles, however, with plenty of other birdlife seen, in addition to the masses of migrating thrushes – we had well over thirty species by my reckoning.

Although I didn’t have my camera, I still managed some scenic shots of the island with the following two being the best my phone would allow.

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I have to say thank you to Andy of Isle of Skye Wildlife Tours for such a great day – he certainly put in the effort to make sure we had the best chances of seeing some pretty spectacular wildlife and I hope everyone went away as happy as I did!

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