An end to a warm autumn day

It certainly has been an unusual start to the season with the weather still in summer mode.  Many of the autumn signs are there, and have been for some time; the changing of the leaves, the darkening of the evenings and the cooling of the mornings.  Yet the days are warm and I’m still seeing the last few swallows and house martins around.

I went for another of my increasingly regular wanders around Wybunbury Moss a couple of days ago.  The wood at the edge of the Moss was quiet, with most of the summer migrants gone, and it took a took a lot longer to notice a good handful of birds amongst the trees or flying over.  There were roving mixed tit flocks passing from cover to cover, a sure sign that the breeding season is over, but I was also still seeing dragonflies over the open Moss – summer remains. The trees around the Moss are certainly changing colour; in fact one or two are almost bare already, while others seem to be in their high summer prime.

Wandering back to the open fields, I got a rarely seen view of a green woodpecker being chased by a sparrowhawk.  I hear woodpeckers at the Moss quite regularly but they are usually great spotted. I hear the greens only a couple of times a year and probably only see one once a year.  The woodpecker was yaffling away as is sprinted low across the Moss, while the hawk didn’t seem all that intent on catching its quarry, as it glided behind.  I’ve had some nice sights at the Moss over the last year or so but its often the case that you have to spend a lot of time at a location to get that kind of glimpse of wildlife.

As dusk started to fall and I walked up the slope towards the church tower, out of the bowl-like depression in which the Moss sits, I could feel the temperature increasing; there had certainly been a nip in the air open fields.  The bowl was acting as a sink, with the cooling air flowing downwards into the lower lying ground and what remained of the day’s warmth, was rising upwards with me.

Driving away, I got a glimpse of the sunset over Wybunbury, the church tower standing out in silhouette. The last of the sun’s rays were still warm but the air flowing in through the open car window was cooling by the minute. 2

GUEST BLOG: An Arctic Affair by Ali Bagley

An Arctic Affair…That’s what the brochure called our adventure, which was in reality a two week cruise up Norway to Svalbard, an island group where-in lies the most northerly settlement in the world, less of an affair than a breath-taking foray to the top of the world.

Dilemma number one, what to pack? It’s July, going to be warm in southern Norway but Svalbard, approx. 600 miles from the North Pole, might be somewhat chillier. Luggage limit 23kgs each, it was difficult, but we managed it, packing everything from swimsuits to jumpers, beach wraps to waterproofs and flip flops to hiking boots.

20140722_140345We boarded in Newcastle, headed straight for the bar and immediately relaxed. We had been on this ship, the Thompson Spirit, last year and so didn’t need to do the obligatory orientation walk. The rest of that day was the sail away, dinner, and unpacking, drinking and general merriment.

I have to say, the major joy of a cruise is in not having to pack and unpack every time you go somewhere new, your hotel room goes with you to all your destinations!

We had nine stops ahead of us on this trip but a day at sea first to get properly into the holiday mood. Having the all-inclusive drinks package was going to be a major factor in this endeavour.

The first stop was a quick drop off for trippers in Hellesylt but we stayed on board for the sail through the Fjords to collect the trippers from Geiranger. Not only did we pass through magnificent scenery, on a glorious summer day, but we passed the Seven Sisters waterfall, fairly sedate in July but must be a sight to behold in spring when the melting snow is rushing down the mountain sides.

Sailing back out of the fjords on our way to our next port of call we took in yet more glorious views, all accompanied by classical music belting from the ships speakers, a truly magical experience.

20140714_122008

And then we crossed into the Arctic Circle.

More eating, drinking, shows, quizzes, meeting new people and general fun stuff that evening (and every evening) but that evening we had our first, and forever memorable experience, of the land of the midnight sun.

We came out onto the deck at 1am in the morning to such an incredible sight, colours I’d never seen before, shimmering silvers, pinks and blues, lit by the sun hovering just above the horizon.

20140715_224404

It was simply magical, like being on the road to heaven.

20140716_002248We just didn’t want to go to bed and miss any of this but we had more nights ahead.

Our next stop was in Tromso, known as the ‘Gateway to the Arctic’. A large city which has seen the start of many polar expeditions, including that of Roald Amundsen, Norway’s most famous arctic adventurer.

We took the tour going to the Northern Lights science museum, as you don’t see the real thing when the sun doesn’t go down. The film was shown in the planetarium, where you recline and watch it on the domed ceiling, and as it had all been filmed in and around Tromso we got a great idea of how phenomenal the Northern Lights are. Note to self, book a trip to Iceland in January!

The trip also did a bit of a scenic half hour around the city, the most notable view being the sight of a reindeer walking along the pavement, they run free here apparently.

We had also seen whales swimming along by the side of the ship but the pesky buggers were not happy to be photographed, hence this blurred zoomed in effort that was the best I could get.

20140721_110608

Over the next couple of days we were at sea and made a last mainland Norway stop at Honningsvag, the home of the Northern Cape. More amazing scenery, still in delightfully warm summer weather, but we were anxious to get to the main event, Svalbard and the northernmost settlement in the world, Ny-Alesund.

20140719_092338

We arrived on Sunday morning, the drop in temperature from mid-twenties to six degrees most notable. This is a bleak and barren place, snow on the mountains even in July and this settlement, with only 30 permanent residents, is in darkness for the best part of eight months of the year.

Ny-Alesund is in effect a hodgepodge of outbuildings, used for scientific research on global warming, arctic flora and fauna and other geographic sciency stuff. We had a walk around the settlement, phones had to be turned off, stick to the paths, don’t talk to polar bears, that sort of thing. We didn’t actually see any polar bears but on Svalbard they significantly outnumber people.
I did get dive bombed by an Arctic Tern when I got too close to her nest, we got soaked in the driving sleet but by golly it was a wonderful day.

20140719_095451B

The sail from Ny-Alesund took us into the Magdelena Fjord that evening. This is simply stunning, even in fog and damp weather the sight of the glaciers climbing over and down the mountains was amazing. These monsters were hundreds of feet high and had been moving through the land for millions of years. It’s hard to take in the magnitude of this wonder of nature and even harder to get a picture that truly puts them into perspective.

20140719_194736

20140719_195030Next day found us in Longyearbyen, the largest town on Svalbard and home to the Svalbard museum and Camp Barentz.
We joined the tour, there aren’t any taxi’s here so going it alone which we normally do wasn’t possible. First stop Camp Barentz, a tourist spot in the middle of nowhere which has a replica of an explorers hut, a wigwam type structure (where we found caramel cheese waffles – delicious) and most importantly, a husky farm. I was in my element. These are real working dogs but they are so used to humans, and are handled from very early that they get very excited when we arrive. These aren’t the fluffy domesticated husky back home, these are dirty, moulting and live in wooden boxes but they were so friendly and lovable. I even got to hold a puppy – fantastic.

10346110_803684982996313_5838395110974751014_n

We then went to the museum, which houses various stuffed examples of the wildlife and a bit of history about all the polar expeditions that have gone from the island.

Another day at sea, chilly but bright before stops in Bronnysund and Leknes, where I stayed on the ship sunbathing because honestly there’s only so many Norwegian towns you can visit before you realise they are pretty much all the same!

Our penultimate stop was in Alysund, interesting because the whole place burnt down in 1904 and was rebuilt art deco style in just six years. We took the local mini train up into the mountains to see the town from above, it’s very Disney medieval village styly from up the top but great views.

20140724_114135Our last port of call was the truly stunning Flam, a town which sits at the end of a Fjord and from which you can get a train up through the mountains (which obviously was what we did). There are a load of wonderful pictures from that train journey, here are a few . . .

1560753_803686546329490_2294030978097314027_n

64121_803687359662742_5070859655716068028_n

10363324_803686109662867_9111897533684093982_n

And then it was home again, so I will leave you with a final sunset and a recommendation to get there if you can because the sights and experiences of this trip will stay with you for a lifetime.

20140716_231851Ali

The melancholic tune of autumn…

As I stepped out of my porch this morning, with the dawn still to come, I was struck by a sound coming from the tree across the road. The sad, wistful notes came from an unseen bird, standing on a branch or twig amongst the foliage. The tune came again as I left the office for the day but this time there were two calling from within the bushes, perched some way apart.

After hearing very little bird song over the past few weeks, with the post-breeding moult keeping the birds quiet, the calls stood out from the background noise.

The calls came from robins.

Embed from Getty Images

The robin is unusual in that it sings almost throughout the year – the moult being the only time it remains quiet for any length of time. The singing enables the robin to keep its territory across the seasons but the song changes and is in two distinct phases. As breeding approaches, the song is more powerful, purposeful and bright, attracting a mate to the ground above which it stands protector. However, after it has refreshed from a hectic breeding season and the autumn proceeds, the song changes to more melancholic notes, as if saddened by the end of another year approaching.

After spending so much time listening to bird songs and calls during the breeding bird surveys this year, the quietness that the moult brought was quite startling and I noticed it more than ever before. The autumn call of the robin, however, has lifted the silence and has opened my ears to a whole new season of sound. It won’t be long until the some of my days are filled with the sounds of wintering geese and swans, and the dusk is accompanied by the alarm calls of blackbirds as the darkness of the lengthening nights envelope the land.

A footnote to an osprey footnote

I’m spending the bank holiday weekend at a family wedding on the atlantic coast of France, not far south of Bordeaux.  As always, I’ve taken an interest in the wildlife around the area I’m staying and there’s been plenty to see – ranging from a pipistrelle bat making a few passes over the post wedding drinks to a sand lizard in the dunes I walked through before the big event.

 (1)

Looking at the birds, there are some similarities to the Glaslyn Valley in the summer with green woodpecker yaffling in the woods, chaffchaff calling occasionally, a tawny owl screeching in the dark and a family of redstarts flitting from bush to bush.  However, the most significant connection came this morning on a slightly fuzzy walk down to the nearby lake.  In the distance I saw a familiar shape floating above the trees on the far shore.  It made its way along the lakeside and then suddenly plunged and splashed into the water, lifting itself out again after a moment on the surface.  I didn’t see if the bird had caught anything before it disappeared against the wooded backdrop. Even at some distance the bird was unmistakably an osprey but could it even have been one of the Glaslyn birds on migration south? If it was, that really would have been another great postscript to the osprey protecting season!

The first signs of mists and mellow fruitfulness

We may only be just past the middle of August but we are five sixths of the way through meteorological summer and the first signs of autumn are starting to appear.

 2

The weather has turned, after two gloriously warm and sunny months in June and July, August has so far been generally cooler and certainly wetter. Gone are the warm, bright evenings with temperatures in the high twenties and we’re now seemingly stuck with days in the high teens or low twenties, with stronger winds and more rain. However, the approach of autumn isn’t just shown in the weather.

On my early morning commute the signs are also there with the sun now not risen as I walk into the station and mists have been quite common across the fields as I head into Manchester. The series of lakes not far from the station that I pass each day had a large flock of geese on it earlier this week. In the gloom, I suspect these were Canada Geese which are an introduced species but they do move together into larger flocks in the colder months of the year.

The migration of summering birds actually starts much earlier than many people think but it is now well underway. For me, this is particularly shown by the disappearance of the swifts; one of my favourite signs of summer. Unlike the swallows and house martins, swifts have only one brood each year, therefore, they make an early departure back to Africa. The swifts from around my house have gone and last week in Lincolnshire I saw only a tiny proportion of the numbers I had seen only a couple of weeks previously. Also in Lincolnshire, I saw the first signs of the trees changing colour and this morning I noticed a few leaves turning brown in the car park I use each day.

Last weekend on a rural wander around the canal near to Beeston Castle, there were more signs that we are coming to the end of the summer with a wide variety of trees and plants laden down with the fruits of the summer – hawthorn, bramble, apple, elder and blackthorn.

 8 1 7  6 

I was getting back to my car, there was also large gathering of swallows skimming low over a meadow, fattening up on the insects in preparation for their own journeys south.

I used to approach summer with a certain amount of dread; spending hot meetings in client’s stuffy offices isn’t always my idea of fun, especially when it’s so nice outside. I also always used to dread the hot and sticky walk across the city centre back to the station on the way home but maybe all the exercise I have taken over the past couple of years has helped to stop me melting in my suit as I turn up at the train. I now love the summer, which is quite a transformation, however, the autumn has been my favourite season for quite a while now and I can’t wait to see what the coming ‘season of mists and mellow fruitfulness’ brings.

A great footnote to the end of another osprey protecting season!

Yesterday evening I was ecstatic to see the news that a Glaslyn chick from 2012 had been caught on camera at Dyfi. Whilst I’m sure this is a brilliant news for everyone involved in the great Glaslyn osprey project, for me it was quite personal. 2012 was the first year I volunteered at Glaslyn and this is the first time that a chick I have helped to protect has made it all the way back to Wales.

In 2012, I spent a total of four weeks on the Glaslyn as part of a year off work I had taken to do some ‘conservation stuff’.  I have so many great memories of those four weeks, from the male treating me to a ‘fly-by’ on my first visit to protection, to seeing the chicks for the first time, and from going to bed fully clothed after a night shift as I couldn’t defrost, to finding the Porthmadog wonder that is Dark Side of the Moose…not forgetting the people I met and the friends I made (of course!).

Seeing the successful fledging of another brood of young welsh ospreys is an immediate sign of success for all those who have spent many day and night hours watching over the Glaslyn nest, in all weathers (and, this year, some sun!). However, for me, personally, the knowledge that one of the chicks I helped to protect not only successfully fledged but lived through its first two years to make it all the way back to north Wales is the real sign that what the volunteers do at Glaslyn really makes a difference.

Here’s to you Blue 80, you’ve made my osprey protecting season!!!

P.S. A young Blue 80 is one of the birds in the picture below!

IMG_0659

A return to the butterflies of Tegg’s Nose

After going to a wet and windy guided butterfly walk around Tegg’s Nose Country Park a few weeks ago, I returned last weekend to see if I could better views.

 3

It was certainly much better weather with the sun out and warmth in the air, although the wind was quite strong.  Butterflies and moths were very much more in evidence with many flitting around across grass and heathland.  Trying to identify them at distance was quite difficult (especially for a beginner like me!) but I did manage to get good shot of the following:

Meadow Brown

 5

Common Blue

 4

Gatekeeper

 2

Also around the park, the bilberries were ripe and ready for picking, with a few visitors taking a good harvest.

The guided walk certainly increased my interest in butterflies but I might not get many more opportunities this year, particularly as the weather has taken a very autumnal turn.

A Taste of Wildness – an evening of bats at a Cheshire riverside

Standing at the end of a country road, the sun is setting over my shoulder as I stare down into the shallow river valley. It is a typically Cheshire scene, with wide open grassy fields enclosed by trimmed hawthorn hedges and overlooked by old heavily leafed oaks. The atmosphere should be undisturbed as the light falls on a warm sunny day but the railway over the crest interferes with the senses, with the distant rumble of freight trains and the higher pitched passing of inter-city expresses. Above human sounds, the birds come through; there are chiffchaffs well past their spring prime, great tits irritated in a nearby tree, swallows gathering the last insects of the day, blackbirds calling their dusk alarm and the ubiquitous rural crow slowly paddling and calling its way though the cooling air. Hidden away at the bottom of the gradually sloping fields runs a narrow river, enclosed by woodland on one side and by wheat and maize fields on the other. As the light continues to dim, the daytime wildlife settles down, while their nocturnal counterparts start to stir and emerge out to feed. This is a time of badgers, foxes and owls, but tonight it is the bats that will reveal their world.

 2

I don’t normally find myself heading out into the countryside at sunset on a weekday, but this week I had a very good reason to. My conservation volunteering colleagues and friends, Wendy and Gerry, undertake bat surveys at a number of locations around Cheshire and last year I was luckily enough to be invited to join them on a couple of their survey evenings. After enjoying the experience so much last year, I hinted, not too subtlety, that I would like to join them again and this week the first opportunity for this year came my way.

This survey focusses on Daubenton’s bat activity on a one kilometre stretch of river bank, with survey points every 100 metres. Using bat detectors, torches, a stop watch and midge repellent, the number of passes made by Daubenton’s bats over a four minute period are recorded at each point. The data generated enables the Bat Conservation Trust to understand the intensity of feeding and identify any trends in population levels.

The survey site is at the end of a long farm track, just north of Church Minshull, and the River Weaver is the focus. The section of river has open fields on one side, where we survey from, and woodland on the other. We crossed the river from where we parked and had to battle our way along rows of maize before breaking out onto a freshly harvested wheat field, the stubble crunched beneath our feet as we walked to the first survey point. Starting at the far end of the survey site, we stood next to a water pumping building waiting for the right time after sunset to start the survey. The first four-minutes revealed very few bats, Daubenton’s or others, so a little disappointed we made our way to the next points.

This particular evening was warm, dry and clear but as the survey progressed the air started to cool, the dew formed on the grass and the clouds began to appear. As we wandered from point to point, the moon appeared, breaking through the haze, casting our shadows across the field. Herons flew off from the riverside and tawny owls called from inside the woodland. At times we had to scramble down the banks to the water’s edge, whilst at other points we stood high up where the banks had been cut sheer by the passing river. The midges became an increasing annoyance as we made our way along the field and into the maize, where some of the survey points are located, but they were not as aggressive as they were when I went camping in Wales a couple of weeks ago.

 4
Our disappointment at the first survey point was soon forgotten as we recorded 127 Daubenton’s passes at one location; by far the most I have seen (last year 55 was the highest record at a single survey point). However, there were more than just the low flying Daubenton’s in the air, with Pipistrelle, Noctule and possibly Brandt’s bats flitting and speeding around our heads, some making very close passes. Overall, we recorded a good number of bats over the course of the survey but will have to wait until the second of the two visits to see how this year’s numbers compare to those previously recorded.

As we finished the survey and wandered back to the cars, I did a quick scan with the powerful torch, across the surrounding fields, to see if I could pick up any eye-shine from wandering wildlife in the night but didn’t see any. However, Wendy and Gerry did see a brown hare running along the road on the way home – a rare sight nowadays and I missed it unfortunately.

 1

Whilst I have found these batty evenings in the middle of the Cheshire countryside truly enchanting, what I’ve really taken from these experiences is the thought that the bats are out there every night, doing what they do, not caring about the manmade world that surrounds them. Not seeing them every night doesn’t stop them being there, going about their nocturnal ways. It’s a bit like the feeling I got from the first time I wandered around a wolf territory in Sweden; I didn’t see or even hear any wolves but the mere fact that they were out there, somewhere, was enough to make me feel there was something truly wild and untamed around me, something man cannot touch. Unfortunately that feeling is just that, a feeling, as, in reality, man is touching, destroying, the wildness around us. I say wildness as there is already no wilderness at all on this island but when you look closely enough, wildness is certainly there, everywhere – from deer in the woods, bats above the rivers, to spiders in the grass and lichen on the rocks.