The Essence of Ramsey Island

I’m home now after (nearly) two weeks on Ramsey Island and it’s always a wrench to leave the place behind – especially yesterday as it was bathed in warm sunshine when I left.

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At the beginning of each of my previous stays on Ramsey, I have thought that my next stint of residential volunteering should be on a different RSPB reserve. During the course of each stay, this usually changes to deciding to return to Ramsey, but only for one week, and eventually deciding to return the next year for another whole two weeks. This again happened this time and on the long five hour journey home, I started to think about exactly what it is about the place that draws me back each time. There are so many things that make Ramsey Island so special:

The People – The only place I can start is with the Ramsey Island staff – Greg, Lisa and Amy; they couldn’t be more friendly, welcoming, helpful, informative, understanding and patient. They all have a real passion for the island and its wildlife and this is passed on to the volunteers. Without them, the island, and volunteering there, wouldn’t be the same.

Volunteering on the island also wouldn’t be the same without the other volunteers. I have made some true friends during my stays and I’m sure I will make more during future visits.

I also have to mention Dewi, the island’s border collie – perhaps the best dog in the world!

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Community – For a brief one or two week period, volunteers are part of a real, thriving and vibrant community, and not just on the island itself. Ramsey is just a small part of the wider community that also includes the boat crews and staff, scientists, locals, visitors and, of course, Derek, the local farmer who does so much to support the management of the island. However, while physically part of the community for only a brief period, with the island’s Twitter and blog posts it is now possible to be part of the ‘virtual’ community all year round.

The Work – Volunteering on an island and spending most days working on a range of tasks may seem like an odd way to spend annual leave to many people but beach holidays just aren’t for me. The work volunteers are given is so varied that few days are the same, with tasks ranging from helping with the boats and serving in the small island shop, to wildlife surveys, building maintenance, through to bracken bashing and talking to visitors (or is that bashing visitors and talking to bracken?). I have to say that the surveys and physical land management tasks may be where my real interest lies at the moment but I also really enjoy the other tasks and I find something very inspiring and energising about talking to visitors about the wildlife, the island and volunteering.

Wildlife – Well, we all volunteer on Ramsey for the wildlife and it’s a pretty special place where nature is concerned. However, it’s not just the obvious elements of the natural world, the birds and mammals, that make Ramsey an interesting location to spend some time. Through volunteering there my appreciation of the commonly overlooked aspects of the natural world has increased – from collecting dung beetles to being enthusiastically shown tiny spiders. During this stay the wild flowers also came into full bloom, transforming large parts of the island, with swathes of bluebells around the Bungalow and the base of Carn Llundain.

The Island – Finally, there’s the island itself, which seems to draw me further under its spell with every visit. I have to honestly say that I’m hooked and it has had quite a profound effect on me. It’s difficult to put my finger on it but it certainly has something, an essence, that I’ve found nowhere else. The fact that so many volunteers return year after year, shows that others have the same, or even stronger, feelings for the place.

Maybe that essence is the scenery. The island is truly beautiful and I never get tired of the views; I love sitting on the bungalow doorstep each morning (weather permitting) and staring out over the sheep fields and Ramsey Sound, towards Whitesands Bay and Carn Llidi. However, the island’s scenery changes as you walk around it and also through the seasons and different weather conditions – it is a stunningly beautiful place and I don’t think I could ever get tired of gazing across it.

Maybe the essence is related to the feeling of isolation, perhaps made stronger by the fact that the mainland and ‘civilisation’ are within sight and almost within touching distance. When on the island, the outside world seems so far away, yet it can be heard on the wind, when it’s in the right direction.

Maybe the essence is some mystical power the island holds; it certainly has a long spiritual history and many people have visited the island over the centuries for religious and spiritual reasons.

Maybe the essence is everything above all wrapped up together – the people, the community, the work, the wildlife and the island itself. In some ways, I hope I never work it out; I think it may be best left unexplained – helping to ensure I keep being drawn back!

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Last Day on Ramsey Island

Well, that’s nearly it…I’ve just finished my last full day on Ramsey Island and I nearly blogged every day (doing much better than I thought I would).

The past (nearly) two weeks has flown by, as they usually do on the island, especially when there are boats to help with.

Today, as well as helping with the boat arrivals and departures, I finished doing a wheatear survey around the north and centre of the island, took some photos of the wildflowers and went on a boat trip around the island and out to the Bishops and Clarks.

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The boat trip was with Thousand Islands Expeditions, the same company that runs the boat across to the Ramsey Island, and it’s well worth the price (a couple of flapjacks in my case!).

Ramsey Island Running Champion!

After my run around part of the island a few days ago, I was told of the Ramsey Island Three Peaks Challenge.  This ‘competition’ was set by a previous volunteer, Glyn Holt, in 2008, and involves running the tourist track, starting and finishing at the gateway to the Bungalow and taking in all three of Ramsey Island’s huge peaks (the towering Carn Ysgubor – 101 metres, the enormous Carn Llundain – 136 metres and the mighty Foel Fawr – 72 metres). The route is approximately 3.5 miles long and Glyn set the benchmark for the challenge with a time of 46 minutes.  In 2011, Tom Pinches broke the record, setting a time of 42 minutes and that stood until this afternoon.

Much to my amazement, particularly considering my age disadvantage (with at least 10 years on the previous contenders), I set a time of 38 minutes 56 seconds. I think I may have taken a slight shortcut but if the others have gone the longer route, this would only add around a minute to their time.

My record may not last very long, however, as Tom is returning next week for another stint of volunteering.

We had some departures and arrivals today with volunteers Nicola and Steve leaving and Harriet arriving.  We also had quite a few visitors with 17 on the 10:00 boat and 25 on the 12:00. I spent the day helping with the visitors and then tried to do a wheatear survey but didn’t get very far after talking to a visitor about a possible peregrine nest and trying to find chough for another group of visitors.

The weather today was spectacular with almost wall-to-wall sunshine.  There was a cool north-westerly breeze at the beginning of the day but this lessened as the day progressed – I’m amazed I haven’t been sunburnt yet!

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Visitors!!!

For the first time in eight days, Ramsey Island had more than six people on its shores. Ever since my arrival, last Sunday, the winds have been too strong for the Gower Ranger to sail from St. Justinian on the mainland to Ramsey harbour.  Over the course of my four stays on Ramsey, that was by far the longest the island has been without visitors and I almost forgot that looking after them is the main part of the volunteers’ job.

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The boat brought two loads of visitors across today, with six on the 10:00 sailing and four on the 12:00, and they were in for a real treat.  Ramsey was at its best, with a warm sun, brilliant blue skies and a (comparatively) light wind.  I’m writing this with a slight glow about me – generated either by the Sun or the wine I’ve just been drinking (but probably both).

The volunteers again spent the day doing different tasks, in addition to helping with the boat arrivals and departures, and serving in the island’s shop.  I did a chough watch in the morning, observing the comings and goings around a nest site, and in the afternoon I did a wheatear survey, walking around the eastern part of the island noting the wheatears spotted and their behaviour.

While my favourite time of day on Ramsey is first thing in the morning, I also love the hour or so just before the visitors leave, when they are all waiting around the farmhouse for the boat to take them off at 16:00.  This is often a time to have a good chat to them and talk about what they have seen and what a great place Ramsey is – especially as a volunteer!

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The Bungalow is warm tonight, probably the warmest it’s been since I arrived, helped by the sun and the wood burning stove in the main room (and maybe a wee dram or two)

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Weather Forecasting – the Ramsey Way

The weather has a huge influence on everything that happens on Ramsey Island and all the staff and volunteers keep a close eye on the forecasts.  The internet is the usual source of weather information but when the connection fails we have to rely on the ‘Forecasting Stone’, which is usually very accurate but it does require a trip down to the farm buildings to check.

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With strong winds still blowing across the island, following yesterday’s gale, there were no visitor boats again today.  When we volunteers went down to the farmhouse this morning for today’s instructions, there was a long list of tasks to be done.  While Steve chopped kindling and then did some maintenance around the Bungalow, Nicola made some insect homes from clay pipes and heather and did some painting.  I went down to the south of the island and cleared heather which was starting to encroach on the path.

I had lunch down in the amphitheatre-like bowl of Aber Myharan, sitting amongst the bluebells on the cliff top in the bright sunshine, watching the gannets fly past above Ramsey Sound – a pretty perfect spot.

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There were some interesting patterns in the clouds in the afternoon as I finished off cutting back the heather…

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Ships in the Bay

Ramsey Island sits at the northern end of St Brides Bay, with the other Pembrokeshire islands of Skomer and Skokholm at the southern end of the bay’s large arc.  To the south of the bay lie the ports of Milford Haven and Pembroke, with a constant stream of ships entering and leaving each day.

From Ramsey, ships can usually be seen lying at anchor in St. Brides Bay waiting to go into the ports.  This morning there were four sat out in the bay including Arctic Breeze (pictured below above the Ramsey farm buildings), Bro Developer, Sten Skagen and Bro Deliverer.

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Having a bit of a liking for ships, I keep an eye on those anchored in the bay and others that pass the island with this website.

The Wilder Side of Ramsey Island

A gale hit the island today, so again there were no boats bringing visitors.  Nicola, one of my fellow volunteers, was meant to leave today (Saturday) but it could be Monday or even Tuesday until she gets the chance to get across to the ‘wrong side’ of Ramsey Sound.

We spent part of the morning finishing off putting the shop back together after redecorating it over the past couple of days; we were then given the rest of the day off – always a bonus!

I went for a run around the island; from the Bungalow, up Carn Llundain (the highest point), then down to the far south and then back up past the farmhouse and through the sheep fields.  There might be something slightly mad about running around an island in gale-force winds and rain but it was the most spectacular run I’ve ever done – it certainly beats pounding the streets at home.  The wind was so strong on the outward leg that it almost stopped me in my tracks and the force took my breath away (not helpful when running up a steep hill!).  However, just under 35 minutes to run around most of the island seems like a reasonable benchmark, which I’ll have to try beating over the course of the next week.

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After lunch, trying to warm up after sitting in the cold Bungalow for a couple of hours, I went for a walk to the north of the island and took some shots of the rough seas.  I also found another very obliging stonechat (a male this time) and took some of my ‘usual’ shots that I always take when I’m here…

My favourite view from the Bungalow…

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The male stonechat…

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Red deer stags amongst the bluebells outside my bedroom window…

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There are 13 red deer on the island, left over from when Ramsey was a deer farm.  The herd includes three stags, seven hinds and three young from last year (also hinds).  The three stags seem to like mooching around the Bungalow at the moment, while the hinds are mostly down towards the south.  I’m not quite sure about the temperaments of the deer and give them a wide berth although they seem quite docile at the moment and tend to wander off if I get close.

Mild insomnia does have its benefits…

The sunrise this morning was fantastic and not being a good sleeper at the moment enabled me to witness it.

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ImageAnother day without boats meant that we continued with painting the island’s shop in the morning and then we spent some time looking for potential breeding pairs of chough on the eastern side of the island.  I went to the very south of the island and watched a pair for about an hour; they seemed very interested in possible nest sites and chased off other chough but there were no signs that they had young – perhaps next year.

The weather looks interesting tomorrow with heavy rain and up to 50mph gusts of wind – might be a day for more inside work.

Paintbrushes, axes and shovels

With the weather still not up to allowing the boat to run, bringing visitors to Ramsey Island, we started on redecorating the island’s shop. We began by clearing all the contents out into the storeroom next door but took a photo first to ensure we put everything back in the same place.

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We completed one coat and it needs another but with the cool and damp conditions on the island, the first coat will take a night to dry.

In the afternoon, we did a range of tasks and I chopped four crates of wood for the Bungalow’s fire (managing not to crush the tendons in my hand like I have previously – not on Ramsey) and then Steve and I repaired the dam in the small pond above the farmhouse – I know those years of practice in my childhood would come in handy one day!

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As it does frequently, the weather changed from cloudy and wet to sunny and dry in the afternoon but the wind is still brisk and it looks like we won’t get boats again for a few days yet.

Volunteers’ Day Off

Volunteers on Ramsey Island have one day off a week, and today was it. I think we were all glad of it too, after having the Wardens up to the Bungalow for Dinner last night – I was certainly a little fuzzy this morning.

Unexpectedly the weather was great again although the wind was still too strong for the boats to bring visitors across and it may stay like this for the rest of the week.

I spent the middle of the day doing an hour long chough watch at the south of the island (watching for activity around a chough nest site) and then took some photos of the flowers – the example below being the best of them (I think I need to put a bit more effort in!)

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This is the first time I’ve been on Ramsey when the Spring flowers have been coming out.  Whilst I was on the island for the same two weeks last year, the late Spring of 2013 meant that most of the flowers hadn’t appeared by the time I left.  Hopefully, they will all be in full bloom before I leave.

Some of the birds on the island are very obliging when it comes to taking their photos with the female stonechat below proving the point.

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